Hanoi's autumn streets near St. Joseph's Cathedral come alive with the scent of com, or young green rice. Discover this heritage treat from a local vendor.
As autumn settles over Hanoi, a familiar scene unfolds near St. Joseph’s Cathedral—Nguyen Thi Hoc, a long-time street vendor, offers a seasonal favorite: com, or young green rice, wrapped in fragrant lotus leaves. This beloved treat, rooted deeply in Hanoi's heritage, continues to captivate both locals and tourists alike, with its delicate flavors and cultural significance.
A Traditional Snack with a Modern Twist
For over 20 years, 45-year-old Hoc has sold young green rice in the heart of the city, specifically on Nha Chung Street, just a stone’s throw from the iconic cathedral. Each morning, Hoc sets up her humble bamboo basket, which holds an aluminum tray filled with meticulously wrapped com bundles, each weighing around 200 grams and priced at VND50,000 (approximately US$2). Her setup may be simple, but the homemade quality of her offerings has earned her a dedicated following, especially among coffee lovers and photography enthusiasts who frequent the area.
Positioned near a busy café popular with young locals, Hoc’s com serves as a perfect takeaway treat. Customers often purchase the rice and head to nearby coffee shops, where they savor it alongside their beverages. On weekdays, Hoc sells between 3-4 kilograms of the green rice, but on weekends, when foot traffic surges, she often sells 7-10 kilograms. "I come here every day at 6 a.m. and usually stay until 6 p.m.," Hoc shares, adding that the weekends bring a significant boost in sales.
A Family Craft Passed Down Through Generations
The young green rice that Hoc sells is more than just a street snack—it’s part of a rich cultural tradition passed down through her family, who are from Me Tri Village in Nam Tu Liem District. Me Tri is famous for producing com, and in 2019, the Ministry of Culture, Sports, and Tourism recognized the craft as a national intangible cultural heritage.
Hoc's sister, Nguyen Thi Nhung, has been making com for over 30 years, continuing the family tradition. Nhung explains that while various sticky rice varieties can be used to make com, yellow flower sticky rice is the most prized for its fragrant and sweet qualities. The process of making com is labor-intensive, involving multiple rounds of threshing, winnowing, roasting, and pounding to create the tender yet resilient rice flakes that com is known for.
A Seasonal Delight Steeped in History
Com is traditionally wrapped in lotus leaves, which imbue the rice with a subtle fragrance. However, with lotus leaves becoming harder to find, some vendors have switched to alternative wrappings like dong leaves, though they lack the same aroma. Despite these changes, com remains a treasured autumn treat in Hanoi, enjoyed in various ways—from pairing it with ripe bananas to incorporating it into more creative dishes like stir-fried rice or even savory pork rolls.
Nguyen Tham, a 27-year-old from Hai Phong, discovered Hoc’s com after seeing social media posts featuring the treat at cafés near the cathedral. On a recent trip to Hanoi, she bought five bundles, one to enjoy immediately and the rest to bring home as gifts. "I love the combination of softness and sweetness. Although it’s made from glutinous rice, it’s nothing like traditional sticky rice. You can still taste the essence of young rice," she said.
A Taste of Tradition for Younger Generations
For younger Hanoians like Ngoc Anh, 22, com is a nostalgic treat that harks back to childhood. "Fresh com is wonderfully chewy and mildly sweet. The coconut-infused sticky rice has a lovely, nutty scent," she said while enjoying a bundle with a friend. Like many, Ngoc Anh appreciates how com continues to be a simple yet meaningful part of Hanoi’s autumn culture.
Despite the rise of modern snacks and cafes, the enduring popularity of traditional treats like com is a testament to Hanoi’s deep connection to its heritage. Vendors like Hoc, with their family-made products and street-side stalls, play a crucial role in preserving this cultural legacy, ensuring that the flavors of Hanoi’s past continue to delight both locals and visitors.
