Ca Trù: A Night at the Opera in the Streets of Hanoi
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Experience ca trù, Vietnam's ancient sung poetry, in Hanoi's Old Quarter. Discover its rich history and hear its enchanting melodies. 
On a typical Sunday evening in Hanoi’s bustling Old Quarter, the sounds of the city create a vibrant tapestry. Motorbikes whizz by, street vendors call out their wares, and tourists click their cameras, capturing the manic energy that defines the area. However, if you find yourself wandering along Hang Bac, also known as “Silver Street,” you might be drawn in by another sound—a haunting melody that resonates through the air.
This sound belongs to ca trù, an ancient Vietnamese musical tradition that intertwines sung poetry and storytelling. With roots dating back over a millennium, ca trù is not just music; it is a profound cultural expression. In 2009, UNESCO recognized its significance by inscribing ca trù as an “Intangible Cultural Heritage in Need of Urgent Safeguarding,” highlighting the urgency to preserve this captivating art form.
High-Class Beginnings
Barley Norton, a senior lecturer in ethnomusicology at Goldsmiths, University of London, first encountered ca trù in 1994. Often described as Vietnam’s answer to opera, ca trù is characterized by dramatic, full-throated performances, always sung by women. The themes of these songs range from love and longing to the serene beauty of Hanoi’s West Lake.
Traditionally, ca trù was performed in exclusive settings for Vietnam’s elite and literati, but over time, it found its way into “singing bars” around Hanoi. Comparisons can be drawn between ca trù and the history of geisha performances in Japan; both forms of entertainment began as high-class pastimes but faced societal stigma and degradation over time.
The genre faced significant challenges after the communist takeover of northern Vietnam in 1945, as it was associated with prostitution and deemed a remnant of French colonial influence. Additionally, the tumultuous wars in Vietnam contributed to the decline of ca trù. However, much of the pre-revolutionary culture once shunned is now recognized as integral to Vietnam's cultural identity.
A Ca Trù Renaissance
In the last 30 years, ca trù has experienced a revival, thanks to government support and the passion of dedicated musicians like Bach Van. Adorned in a fuchsia ao dai—a traditional Vietnamese tunic—60-year-old Van is a prominent ca trù singer who has devoted over three decades to this art. In 1991, she founded the Hanoi Ca Trù Club to introduce the public to this unique music, and she performs weekly at the Dinh Kim Ngan House, a centuries-old communal property.
When Van begins to sing, her voice fills the room with otherworldly sounds. She employs a blend of breathing techniques and vibrato to produce distinctive, ornamented notes. Her singing oscillates between lilting melodies and plaintive, yearning tones. The ca trù repertoire comprises 56 melodies, each performed without a fixed beat, adding to the genre’s ethereal quality.
Accompanying Van are two traditional instruments: a three-stringed, backless lute (notably one of the longest stringed instruments in the world) and a buffalo-hide praise drum. The drum, traditionally played by an audience member to express approval or disapproval, adds a sharp, discordant sound that punctuates the performance, heightening the emotional resonance of the song.
The Song Plays On
Ca trù is a highly specialized form of music passed down orally and through technical training. There is no formal institution teaching this intricate singing style; instead, it is shared from teacher to student over several years. Van explains that a trainee must memorize up to 100 songs before being deemed ready to perform in front of an audience.
After her Sunday evening performance, attended by just a handful of people, Van candidly expresses her concerns about the future of ca trù, stating that “it will likely die” with her. Yet, from the courtyard, the unforgettable sounds of ca trù spill into the busy streets of Hanoi, capturing the attention of passersby who pause to listen.
As the vibrant city continues to buzz with life, the enchanting melodies of ca trù remind us of the rich tapestry of Vietnam’s cultural heritage—one that, despite its challenges, strives to endure through the dedication of passionate artists like Bach Van.
On a typical Sunday evening in Hanoi’s bustling Old Quarter, the sounds of the city create a vibrant tapestry. Motorbikes whizz by, street vendors call out their wares, and tourists click their cameras, capturing the manic energy that defines the area. However, if you find yourself wandering along Hang Bac, also known as “Silver Street,” you might be drawn in by another sound—a haunting melody that resonates through the air.
This sound belongs to ca trù, an ancient Vietnamese musical tradition that intertwines sung poetry and storytelling. With roots dating back over a millennium, ca trù is not just music; it is a profound cultural expression. In 2009, UNESCO recognized its significance by inscribing ca trù as an “Intangible Cultural Heritage in Need of Urgent Safeguarding,” highlighting the urgency to preserve this captivating art form.
High-Class Beginnings
Barley Norton, a senior lecturer in ethnomusicology at Goldsmiths, University of London, first encountered ca trù in 1994. Often described as Vietnam’s answer to opera, ca trù is characterized by dramatic, full-throated performances, always sung by women. The themes of these songs range from love and longing to the serene beauty of Hanoi’s West Lake.
Traditionally, ca trù was performed in exclusive settings for Vietnam’s elite and literati, but over time, it found its way into “singing bars” around Hanoi. Comparisons can be drawn between ca trù and the history of geisha performances in Japan; both forms of entertainment began as high-class pastimes but faced societal stigma and degradation over time.
The genre faced significant challenges after the communist takeover of northern Vietnam in 1945, as it was associated with prostitution and deemed a remnant of French colonial influence. Additionally, the tumultuous wars in Vietnam contributed to the decline of ca trù. However, much of the pre-revolutionary culture once shunned is now recognized as integral to Vietnam's cultural identity.
A Ca Trù Renaissance
In the last 30 years, ca trù has experienced a revival, thanks to government support and the passion of dedicated musicians like Bach Van. Adorned in a fuchsia ao dai—a traditional Vietnamese tunic—60-year-old Van is a prominent ca trù singer who has devoted over three decades to this art. In 1991, she founded the Hanoi Ca Trù Club to introduce the public to this unique music, and she performs weekly at the Dinh Kim Ngan House, a centuries-old communal property.
When Van begins to sing, her voice fills the room with otherworldly sounds. She employs a blend of breathing techniques and vibrato to produce distinctive, ornamented notes. Her singing oscillates between lilting melodies and plaintive, yearning tones. The ca trù repertoire comprises 56 melodies, each performed without a fixed beat, adding to the genre’s ethereal quality.
Accompanying Van are two traditional instruments: a three-stringed, backless lute (notably one of the longest stringed instruments in the world) and a buffalo-hide praise drum. The drum, traditionally played by an audience member to express approval or disapproval, adds a sharp, discordant sound that punctuates the performance, heightening the emotional resonance of the song.
The Song Plays On
Ca trù is a highly specialized form of music passed down orally and through technical training. There is no formal institution teaching this intricate singing style; instead, it is shared from teacher to student over several years. Van explains that a trainee must memorize up to 100 songs before being deemed ready to perform in front of an audience.
After her Sunday evening performance, attended by just a handful of people, Van candidly expresses her concerns about the future of ca trù, stating that “it will likely die” with her. Yet, from the courtyard, the unforgettable sounds of ca trù spill into the busy streets of Hanoi, capturing the attention of passersby who pause to listen.
As the vibrant city continues to buzz with life, the enchanting melodies of ca trù remind us of the rich tapestry of Vietnam’s cultural heritage—one that, despite its challenges, strives to endure through the dedication of passionate artists like Bach Van.
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